Announcing the 2016 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalists


To rattle off past winners of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund is to list the biggest names in American fashion. Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, and Proenza Schouler have all taken home the main prize, with runners-up including the likes of Thom Browne, Rodarte, and 3.1 Phillip Lim. Founded 13 years ago, the fund has served as a launchpad, offering our homegrown talent financial rewards and integral mentorship from CFDA members and Vogue editors. Tonight the first-ever CVFF winners, Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, announced the 2016 finalists in their David Adjaye–designed Soho store. Over the next several months, the class of 2016 will participate in a variety of challenges—first up is a design challenge with Intel, then a fashion show this October at Los Angeles’ Chateau Marmont underwritten by Kate Spade New York—all while continuing to produce their standard collections. Busy? You bet. Meet the finalists here, and keep close watch for more CVFF updates on The winner, who will receive a $400,000 prize, and the two runners up, receiving $150,000 each, will be announced at a gala dinner on November 7.   The 2016 finalists are:   Adam Selman: Adam Selman Area: Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk Brock Collection: Kristopher Brock and Laura Vassar Chloe Gosselin: Chloe Gosselin Ji Oh: Ji Oh Krewe du Optic: Stirling Barrett Morgan Lane: Morgan Curtis Newbark: Maryam and Marjan Malakpour Rochambeau: Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper Stampd: Chris Stamp  

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Meet the Designer Using Caftans to Bridge the Middle East With the West


Bakchic’s Instagram is basically an ongoing advertisement for all of what Morocco has to offer. It’s a rich feed, full of shots that include plump fresh figs and sequined babouches, Zellige enameled tiles, or a shot of designer Sofia El Arabi posing in front of a whitewashed wall in a bright red fez hat and an armful of silver Berber cuffs. El Arabi embraces all things Morocco, as does her label which includes everything from riffs on traditional caftans to more contemporary pieces like simple tees. From the looks of El Arabi’s output, both physical and on social media, it would seem that the designer has spent her life dedicated to Moroccan culture, but the idea to create Bakchic stemmed instead from a lack of exposure to her surroundings. El Arabi grew up in a family that she considers “Western oriented,” and spoke French and English while living in Morocco, as well as attending a French-speaking high school. It was only when she returned to Morocco after studying in France that she discovered what her country had to offer. “This period of my life was really about trying to discover Morocco,” she says. “My own identity has been divided between something Eastern and Western so I tried to find a way between these two worlds.” That way came from clothing, and El Arabi soon began making custom caftans for her family. Soon after, El Arabi quit her job at a French television station and launched Bakchic in 2012. Though El Arabi has amassed more than 35,000 followers on her Instagram, fans of her brand tend to be abroad, rather than in the cosmopolitan areas of Morocco, where general style tends toward a more Western aesthetic. She has found it difficult to tap into the local market. “The problem in Morocco, is that people are not totally proud of this cultural wealth that we have, because no one before really took it seriously,” says El Arabi, “This is a challenge of making Arab cool again. People are more attracted to the universal culture, which is Western. Universal culture is easier to access. It’s a style that people understand so you don’t really take a risk wearing different clothes.” Of course, there are also the political connotations. “I really wanted to show the world that being Arab doesn’t mean being violent, or all of these cliches that you can watch on TV,” says El Arabi. “Even if you may think that clothing is not as serious, or [cannot] solve the political problems that the world is going through, I think it is cool to communicate a certain identity and vision of the Arabs.” And to that end, El Arabi wears her caftans with Adidas track pants, or blue jeans. “The most important thing to remember is to stay simple because these pieces are full of embroideries,” says El Arabi. “The thing is to wear a pair of jeans for example, or a simple T-shirt, and then to add something Moroccan with embroideries. It’s staying simple on the Western side of your outfit.” The other part? Wearing your culture proudly on your sleeve.

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Beyond Balenciaga: A Spanish Art Director on Madrid’s Style Renaissance


The appointment of Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga. The Loewe puzzle bag hung over the arms of every woman in the know. It would seem a style revolution is afoot in Spain, but according to Inés Ybarra—one of the country’s most stylish denizens—it has little do with the influence of Georgian and British designers. The 24-year-old art director, who calls Madrid home, attests instead that the growing presence of young, native designers is what’s sending the country to the forefront of the fashion world. And she should know: Between collaborating with such venerated designers as Sybilla and being tapped as the face of campaigns for design newcomers like Paloma Wool, Ybarra is very much in the mix of the buzzing Spanish creative world. Since moving back from art school in London, Ybarra has rediscovered her hometown, from its fashionable neighborhoods to the must-see gallery spaces that continue Spain’s long, rich art history. And in the process, she’s incorporated the city’s innate sense of elegance into her own incredible wardrobe. Here, Ybarra breaks down the future of Spanish fashion and the breakout designers to get to know now. Relearning the City “I remember that one of the first things I did when I came back to Madrid was to investigate the city’s wide array of unique shooting locations. I read all the blogs I could find to discover unique and interesting places—I even used Google Maps to study all the parks and lakes I didn’t know. At the age of 24, I finally started to properly get to know the city I have lived in for so long.” Madrid’s Art Scene Is Still Bustling Centuries Later “We have so many talented upcoming artists such as Juan Garaizabal, who makes beautiful sculptures, and performing artists like Filip Custic and Kito Muñoz. My favorite gallery in Madrid is without a doubt Javier Lopez & Fer Frances on the outskirts of the city, hosted in a gorgeous modern house. I also love The Goma, Machado-Muñoz, Ivorypress, and Galería Marta Cervera. My favorite museum would have to be the Reina Sofía. It’s not necessarily the one with the best private collection, but I just love walking down those wide corridors with super high ceilings. The museum that I feel has the best exhibitions is the MAPFRE Foundation, but I also love the CaixaForum and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum.” What Inspires Spaniard Style Now “I see everyone wearing loads of vintage pieces or vintage imitation. But I guess the same is happening in the U.S., especially with brands such as Maryam Nassir Zadeh and Mansur Gavriel and online shops like Lisa Says Gah. With local designers like Sybilla, her clothes adapt to all kinds of women. You just don’t want to take off Paco Pintón’s unique sweaters. His bombers are also very cool. Malababa are experts in leather and Babaà Knitwear is the best knitwear for adults and children. The best brand to work with apart from Sybilla is probably Paloma Wool—the creativity and experimentation going on at her studio is brilliant.” Taking Cues from the Older Generation “In general, people dress very elegantly in Madrid. When I dress I’m probably influenced by the older men—I love how they wear berets. I also love to combine blazers with trousers and skirts like older women do. It’s hard to tell what has influenced me the most. There are loads of things to absorb in this country! We have had so many great artists in this country, like Velázquez, Goya, Joan Miró, and Picasso. In architecture we had Gaudí, and now we have super-talented people such as Ricardo Bofill or Xavier Corbero, who is a sculptor and architect. Musically, we had Lola Flores, Marisol, and Paco de Lucia: Their musical artistry has now been carried on by other great Spanish singers like Rocio Jurado, Farruquito, and Isabel Pantoja. Although I’m not so sure whether they owe their fame to their talent or their polemical lives!” A Spanish Style Renaissance Is Afoot “The essence of Balenciaga is no longer here, neither is the essence of Spain in their designs. There are more interesting things going on here. At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson has managed to keep the essence of Madrid by collaborating with people like Fass Films, a young film production company I just joined. Luis Venegas is the founder, editor, and publisher of Candy, EY! Magateen, Electric Youth!, Fanzine137, and The Printed Dog. Interestingly, Madrid is going through a second Movida Madrileña—a countercultural movement that took place mainly in Madrid in the ’80s that was characterized by freedom of expression and transgression of the taboos. Director Pedro Almodóvar became the best-known example internationally of this movement. The new people in this Movida are Sita Abellan, Angela Huete, Filip Custic, Juan Ortega, Javier de la Blanca, and Aaliyah Rosales.” But Her Favorite Restaurants Are Cultural Institutions “[I’m really inspired by] Bar Cock, where all the creative people have been meeting for 30 years. I also love Bar La Venencia—it opened in 1922 and they only serve food and wines from Cadiz, a city in the south of Spain, so if you want a Coke or a beer, I’m afraid its not the place. Toni2 Piano Bar is open all day and all night, it’s by far my favorite—my friends and I go there between 4:00 and 6:00 a.m., and there are people singing typical flamenco songs by the pianoforte.” The Best in Spanish Shopping “In the neighborhood Malasaña, all the restaurants there are just so diverse; it’s also where all the vintage stores are. I love Lolina Vintage—they serve the best coffee. Ojalá by Andrés Jaque is also very cool—it has a room filled with sand and puffs downstairs. Tuuulibreria is a place where you decide how much you want to pay for a book. For shoes, About Arianne, Magro Cardona, Bimba y Lola, and Mint and Rose are the best. Bimba y Lola also has the best jewelry, along with Malababa, Them Bones Jewelry, and Sansoeurs.” Don’t Forget Zara “It’s going to be even bigger than what it is now. The only thing Spain is missing is good fashion shows, which is always great propaganda for a city. But when you think about it, the shows from Delpozo by Josep Font in New York are a representation of Spain. The shows from Loewe in Paris represent Spain. Zara is the biggest fashion company in the world with Mango close behind, and they are both Spanish brands.”    

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Eddie Redmayne Makes Dad Jeans Cool Again


Remember when President Obama was teased for wearing “dad jeans” back in 2009? Times have changed in the subsequent seven years as dapper dudes including Kanye West, Lenny Kravitz, and Jay Z have been sporting everything from ripped styles to the Met Gala to fitted faded blues on the street. But good jeans extend beyond the musicsphere as demonstrated by Academy Award–winning actor Eddie Redmayne while strolling with little daughter Iris in tow earlier this week. What takes Redmayne’s look from London club kid to grown-up style is all in the details. A vintage-feel sweatshirt is layered over a basic navy tee for a casual, yet pulled-together effect while dark wash jeans complete a streamlined silhouette. The red and blue stripe of his optic kicks echoes the emblem on his shirt, subtly grounding the actor’s look with classic cool.  

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Upgrade Your Summer Bag Game With Jane Birkin’s Signature Basket


Is there a summer shopping dilemma that Jane Birkin can’t solve? Whether you’re on the hunt for a new pair of jeans (hello, Birkin boot-cuts!), are dreaming of a new haircut, or can’t quite figure out the crop top, a vintage photo of the actress is usually all the inspo you need. That holds true for your summer bag game, too—if you could call Birkin’s wicker basket a “bag,” that is. Instead of a ladylike tote or clutch, she famously carried her belongings in a petite basket she more than likely picked up at a seaside market. It looked right at home on the beach in Cannes, but she carried it in the city, too—even with a sheer LBD for a night on the town with Serge Gainsbourg. We’re thinking it might be the chic summer accessory you never knew you needed. Finding a great summer bag is already difficult: When it’s 85 degrees and humid, anything with hardware is out of the question, and even a soft leather hobo can feel cumbersome. In lieu of throwing your things in the canvas tote you got as a gift with purchase, a basket bag is light, airy, and charmingly functional. You can spring for a designer version from Saint Laurent or Hunting Season, or score a vintage one on Etsy for under $30. Find 13 of our favorite options in the slideshow above.  

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2 Chainz Takes Gucci Menswear From Runway to Real Life


A look at Alessandro Michele’s whimsical menswear creations for Gucci might lead you to believe that the designer’s male followers are akin to the baby-faced boys he sends down his runway, but the truth is turning out to be a lot more interesting. Gucci fans have always been an eclectic bunch, with everyone from Jackie O. to Harry Styles wearing the brand, but the latest devotee to embrace the Michele aesthetic is none other than 2 Chainz, the College Park, Georgia, rapper and luxury enthusiast, whose over-the-top wardrobe defies all assumptions about how a hip-hop star ought to dress. An extrovert with a taste for gilded jewelry and quirky clothes, 2 Chainz has repeatedly been spotted in Michele’s designs. At Sunday’s BET Awards, 2 Chainz stepped out in the label’s shearling and denim jacket embellished with butterflies—the same piece favored by Rihanna and Dakota Johnson. Onstage, Gucci is his first choice too, with a yellow-and-black striped jacket serving as a fixture on his current tour, while a bumblebee-covered gingham-print sweatshirt paired with ripped denim was just right for a night at Los Angeles’s Staples Center. Even when he’s just lounging around the house, 2 Chainz is decked out in a tropical-print Gucci windbreaker with matching snapback. Hip-hop has put its own spin on Gucci’s iconography from the days of Dapper Dan’s custom tailoring onward, but 2 Chainz’s take on Michele’s style feels fresh. The vintage-y exuberance of color and pattern pairs with his collection of Supreme skatewear, limited-edition sneakers, and good old-fashioned bling to create something new. Offering a fresh way to wear one of the most popular designers of the moment is difficult, but 2 Chainz pulls it off with ease.  

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Your Guide to All the Best Summertime Lingerie Has Arrived


As soon as the first bead of sweat trickled down my back during a hurried stroll through Nolita a few days ago, it was obvious summer had arrived—and was showing no mercy. While it may be the most sartorially liberating of seasons to dress for—throw on those dresses! Espadrilles for days! Shorts in every variation!—getting a summer wardrobe right takes some thought, starting with the pretty little things we chose to wear underneath our clothes. Truth be told, the less fabric you wear, the more complicated your skivvies situation becomes. Which is why we’re taking a moment to think long and hard about the chicest and most essential underpinnings for the steamy months to come. First things first: You need to consider the basics. For every sheer white tank top or dress you have in your closet you’ll need a nude-little-something to pair it with. Help comes in the form of second-skin Hanro briefs, or if you’re in the mood for something a little more risqué, a pair of pasties. When it comes to light, breathable pieces you can wear everyday without feeling constricted, a featherweight bralette and matching knickers from Araks will easily become a daily go-to. As for those slinky slips that are too pretty to keep to yourself? Who says you have to! After all, the slip dress is the look du jour and right in line with the boudoir dressing trend on the Spring runways; just ask Sienna Miller and Alexa Chung. Shop every lingerie essential you need now in the slideshow above.    

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Looking for Skate Style Inspo? Check Out Vogue’s New Pinterest Board


Even if you have never set foot on a skateboard and can’t distinguish an airwalk from a nose slide, it would be difficult not to fall for the sense of sun-kissed freedom captured in the photos collected on’s new Pinterest board. It’s where you’ll find youthful pictures of legends including Jay Adams and Stacy Peralta, immortalized in the 2005 film Lords of Dogtown, street slaloming and flying out of drained California pools, and a well-padded Alan Gelfand, who invented the Ollie—not to mention music-making skate fans such as Anthony Kiedis and the Beastie Boys’s Adam Yauch. Look out, too, for Peggy Oki, the only female member of the Z-Boys team, and up-and-comer Beatrice Domond who appeared in Supreme’s Cherry. Also of note is the graphic, neon ’80s skate fashion which is so on point with what’s coming down the runways these days. Here, the best skatespiration to make your imagination fly. Follow Vogue Magazine’s board California Dreamin': A Board for Skate Fans on Pinterest. Meet Ko Hyojoo, the South Korean Longboarding Sensation:

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8 HQ is a rich and varied landscape, stylistically speaking. There is no “norm” around the office, no prescribed uniform for the day-to-day. And even if we may not all assent in our review of the latest, most-buzzed-about catwalk collection, damn near all our staffers are united in their love of Vans. Of course, like everything else, nothing is one-size-fits-all. We tapped our writers and editors to share their favorite take on the classic kicks. Are you a Sk8-Hi? The iconic checkerboard slip-on? Or maybe a flaming, deadstock pair if you’re lucky (we headed into the archives to ogle some other rare pairs not long ago. Read on for the 15 styles that are our sneaker spirit animals. Meet Ko Hyojoo, the South Korean Longboarding Sensation: Save Save Save

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The Orlando Magic’s Serge Ibaka Hits the Menswear Shows


The men’s collections have wrapped in Europe—don’t fret, they’ll be in New York soon enough!—and though we saw plenty of trends emerging on the runways, one consistent element was a solid athlete showing. From mainstays like Victor Cruz and Dwyane Wade to newer faces including Brice Butler and Nick Young, this season brought out a slew of style-conscious sportsmen—including the Orlando Magic’s Serge Ibaka. The 26-year-old power forward might be best known for his time with the Oklahoma City Thunder, but he swapped his uniform shorts for a suit and headed to Milan and Paris for the men’s collections. Here, he shares front row snaps and beyond from his slam-dunk Fashion Week experience.  

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Not So Basic After All: How Two Designers Are Transforming Your Closet Staples


Georgia Cherrie and Paris Mitchell have long known a thing or two about closet staples. Best known for their carefully curated e-commerce site, The Mercantile, a New Zealand–based online resource for expertly styled, simple pieces that have the power to elevate your entire wardrobe, like a silk skirt or a cashmere knit. But they haven’t stopped there: The pair recently launched their own in-house line, Paris Georgia, which offers an array of what they dub their “basics”: slip dresses, linen robes, and slinky trousers. The result, as often advertised on their Instagram feed, is a treasure trove for subtle, stylish ensembles with more than a few nods to ’90s minimalism. Think: a slip dress over wide-leg silk trousers, or a cropped silk tank over a white button-up, with inspiration found in the likes of an early-’90s Gwyneth Paltrow, stepping out in a lime green pajama set, or Kate and Naomi slinking around in their own slip dresses. The ironic thing about basics is that—for those possessing figures unlike Gwyneth’s—they’re not always actually that easy to wear. Or at least, not without a few pointers. For Cherrie and Mitchell—who posed in their collection for to provide a sense of both possibility and instruction—the idea of a basic is based on its ability to be remixed. Consider the slip dress: “The slip dress is your oyster,” they explain over email, by which, of course, they mean that the opportunities are endless. “There’s almost nothing as elegant as wearing it simply as it is. Although we always find ourselves drawn to a slip paired with a lightweight layer, a T-shirt, turtleneck, or crisp shirt,” they say. “The occasion calls for how you style it, and we have a slip for every event, from summer nights, evening soirees, or lazing around the house.” Looking to highlight your silhouette? “Knotting your slip at the hip over a pair of trousers is always a nice touch,” they further, “and it’s the perfect way to work with new proportions when dressing.” For those who prefer pants, Cherrie and Mitchell have also infused a bit of that laid-back boudoir feeling into their Marnie suit, a satin cropped tank paired with slouchy, wide-leg trousers. “[It’s] the perfect wedding outfit on its own, yet when you pull it apart and pair it, you have a whole new look,” they write. Plus, Cherrie and Mitchell have created an unlikely combination using the crop top separate, taking it from an evening-appropriate event to a more 9-to-5 setting, by layering it with a natty white button-up. The key, it seems, to transforming any closet fundamental is to utilize the basic as a wardrobe wild card, whether by using an unexpected layering technique (a cropped silk tank over a business button-up), or making your own DIY adjustments. Not so basic after all.    

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Only One Designer Was Willing to Dress Leslie Jones for Her Ghostbusters Premiere


On Tuesday, Saturday Night Live actress Leslie Jones lamented the fact that she had nothing to wear to the upcoming premiere of Ghostbusters, her first big role in a Hollywood movie. “It’s so funny how there are no designers wanting to help me with a premiere dress for the movie,” she tweeted. “Hmm, that will change and I remember everything.” Her fans found nothing funny about her dilemma and more than 500 people retweeted her post. Less than an hour later, designer Christian Siriano quickly offered his help by replying to her with a raised-hand emoji. Siriano later confirmed to Time that he was meeting with the 48-year-old comedy star and “can’t wait to make her something fabulous to wear.” After people praised him for stepping up, Siriano, who has worked with Jennifer Hudson, Uzo Aduba, and Christina Hendricks in the past, explained that he didn’t deserve a pat on the back for simply doing his job. “It shouldn’t be exceptional to work with brilliant people just because they’re not sample size,” he wrote. “Congrats aren’t in order, a change is.” Word. Jones, however, seems thrilled to be working with Siriano on her red carpet look. But she already made it clear that she’s not so quick to move past the original incident. “Hmm, what a difference a tweet makes,” she wrote. “Should I name the designers that didn’t look out? Put y’all ass on blast. You will not get my love later.” Jones’s situation is reminiscent of her Ghostbusters costar Melissa McCarthy’s previous struggle to find designers to work with her as well. Even though she had become one of the most profitable actresses in Hollywood, McCarthy admitted in an interview in 2014 that several people had passed on dressing her for the Oscars. “I couldn’t find anybody to do a dress for me,” she said. “I asked five or six designers—very high-level ones who make lots of dresses for people—and they all said no.” Much like Jones, McCarthy ended up taking matters into her own hands and launched a fashion line called Melissa McCarthy Seven7, which ranges from sizes 4 to 28. “I just wanted to do a basic closet that I couldn’t find,” she told Vogue last year. Perhaps she could also offer something for Jones’s red carpet debut?  

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Rihanna Rocks the Slip Dress Like a True Princess


Thanks to Hedi Slimane, during his tenure at Saint Laurent, for the return of the ’90s slip. The style favored by the likes of Courtney Love has had a fashionable renaissance, popping up on everyone from Dakota Johnson to Gigi Hadid and Jessica Alba, but none has mastered the look in the same way as Rihanna. The Anti singer has rocked the streets in versions from Adam Selman, Christopher Kane, and Dior, and last night in London, joined by Drake, she put a truly fairy-tale spin on the grunge-rock staple. The bicolored spaghetti straps on Rih’s Rosie Assoulin pink princess dress added a touch of whimsy, offset by clever cutouts. Playful pastel ribbons accented the frock and its flounced, ballroom-ready hem. Grounding the look were Dsquared2’s aptly named RiRi sandals, which played with tonal coordination, while a hint of shine came through via stackable Chopard Happy Hearts bracelets.   Kendall Jenner, Cara Delevingne, and more of Rihanna’s Navy pay tribute to “Work”:

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Girls Who Shred: 5 Stylin’ Female Skateboarders to Follow on Instagram Now


Without a doubt, the world of skating feels like a veritable boys’ club. A punk subculture that gladly flips the bird at authority and the powers that may be, the sport has certainly drawn its fair share of unruly testosterone. Tony Hawk, Tony Alva, Rob Dyrdek, Lords of Dogtown—the list goes on and on. But it’s becoming abundantly clear that a new generation of ladies is attracting plenty of attention on and off the skate ramps—and all over social media. With their stealth moves, gravitas, and, yes, inimitable sense of style, these talented and gutsy girls are proving they’re the next wave in skateboarding. Here, a look at the best female skaters who are shredding up Instagram.   Lizzie Armanto, 23, Santa Monica, California Instagram: @lizziearmanto Why we love her account: Arguably the best female skateboarder in the game—the green-haired Californian placed first in World Cup Skateboarding’s Ladies Bowl rankings for three straight years from 2010 to 2012 and practically every competition she’s entered in her career—has an equally winning feed that follows her world travels and showcases her gravity-defying moves. If her board isn’t in her hand, though, the gutsy athlete and avowed foodie is most likely trying out a new cuisine or hanging with other skate-world dynamos like Jeff Grosso.   Sierra Prescott, 27, Los Angeles Instagram: @sierra_prescott Why we love her account: A skateboarder who also happens to be a photographer, Prescott’s Instagram captures all the action for her 40,000 followers. Spinning and flipping and soaring along the streets, piers, and open roads of SoCal, Prescott documents her vibrant skate career on her account. Her throwback personal style, also in full evidence on her feed, recalls the glory days of skate. White tube socks paired with Vans, short shorts, and sun-kissed locks: If she weren’t one of the most buzzed-about female skaters of now, she could easily blend with the ’70s OGs.   Ko Hyojoo, Seoul, South Korea Instagram: @hyo_joo Why we love her account: Filled with vignettes of the skater rolling through Seoul’s busy streets and idyllic parks along the Han River, Ko’s mesmerizing Instagram account has endeared her to more than 267,000 followers—including us—and made her something of an international skate sensation. Capturing her eye-catching style on and off the board, the Line app designer can be seen gliding and swerving in her vintage cool tube socks and Nikes all over the world, whether in Seoul, Paris, or Berlin.   Beatrice Domond, 23, Miami, Florida Instagram: @beatricedommond Why we love her account: A skate video is a skate video is a skate video, right? Well, when you happen to film yours to the righteous words of Gil Scott-Heron, it’s bound to set you apart from the rest. Such is the case for Domond, a 23-year-old Floridian who has been skating since she was 5. Her tricks and signature style came to the attention of William Strobeck, which landed her a role in the Supreme movie Cherry. Sprinkling her Instagram with lo-fi footage of her trying out new moves, pics of her ever-growing Thrasher T-shirt collection, and portraits of her skate heroes, the fresh-faced student of Hebrew has aspirations of turning pro and opening her own skate parks one day. Jina Lee, Seoul, South Korea Instagram: @JINA_E Why we love her account: One look at Jina’s feed and you’ll immediately want to hit the gym. The active skater, snowboarder, surfer, and physical trainer is constantly flexing for the ’gram, as she splits her time between the skate parks and waves of South Korea. The GoPro rider also gives her followers an “in your face” viewing experience by strapping the camera to her board and taking off down ambitious ramps and slopes.   South Korean longboarder Ko Hyojoo rolls through Seoul in style: Save Save Save Save

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When the Going Gets Tough, the Tough Get Going: Alexander Fury Weighs In on the Spring 2017 Men’s Collections


How to characterize the scrambling visual assault of three weeks of menswear shows? By the notion we’re going somewhere, but haven’t quite made it yet. That isn’t a reference to the rippling air-staff strikes that have ground Europe to, well, the ground across the month of June. Rather it acknowledges that a sense of travel was central to some of the season’s strongest shows—Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Thom Browne, Gosha Rubchinskiy, and Raf Simons upping sticks to show in Florence—while also indicating that fashion itself is mid-shift. Turbulence was the main subject for discussion, alongside the U.K.’s devastating Brexit decision to leave the European Union. It is yet to be seen if that wound is merely superficial and will heal with time, or will prove fatal. For its part, the menswear market isn’t dead, but this season it did feel somewhat diminished. Burberry, Bottega Veneta, Umit Benan, Saint Laurent, and the Zegna labels all skipped; Calvin Klein scaled down its Collection to a showroom appointment; McQueen shot a lookbook; and Berluti did a slightly silly pool party. Some of these dropouts are temporary. Burberry, however, has gone for good, and this season also marked the last stand-alone Gucci menswear show. Their combined turnover exceeds $8 billion. It’s a big deal in the small world of fashion. There are other issues—the fall-off in Chinese trade, the bottoming out of Brazil’s currency, indeed the general uncertainty of not just the BRIC countries, but of economies across the world. It has rattled luxury, and made them reexamine what they’re doing, and—perhaps more significantly—how they’re doing it. That’s what I mean about the fashion shift. It feels as if the industry, for better or worse, is upending itself and resettling. That’s why the most exciting collections of the season were those that took risks and explored new territory. The shows that mattered made an attempt not to move with the times, but to change them, to challenge the rise of “see now, buy now” and the difficulties every designer and retailer seems to think the concept poses to areas as diverse as creative freedom, production deadlines, and editorial representation. Raf Simons chose to share his label with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation, his second collection with an art figure. Far from the text-heavy scramble of imagery that characterized his collaboration with the California conceptualist Sterling Ruby, his work with Mapplethorpe was cool, calm, and pure—definitely removed, by necessity, by virtue of its posthumous nature. The ghost of Mapplethorpe rode high, resurrected by Simons’s painstaking research and transformation of each of his models into a representation of a Mapplethorpean sitter, the artist’s oeuvre included not an insignificant number of self-portraits. These clothes weren’t simple, nor easy: The individual pieces, and the men they clothed, were as arresting as Mapplethorpe’s original images. A number simply can’t be sold, due to the limitations of reproduction outlined by the Mapplethorpe Foundation and, potentially, of public decency. But this was Simons rethinking fashion: If his collaboration with Ruby was art in itself, these pieces served as frames around Mapplethorpe’s imagery, transforming them into sculptural objects much in the photographer’s own method. It was, in short, unlike anything we have seen, nor will see again. Collaboration was also key to Gosha Rubchinskiy’s show. As opposed to artists, his collaborators were Kappa, Sergio Tacchini, Fila—Italian-born sports giants, alongside Levi’s, the kind of jeans you couldn’t get in the USSR. There was a strong tie to Rubchinskiy’s Moscow homeland, but traveling to Florence inspired him to shift his aesthetic. Or maybe the shift caused the move: Rubchinskiy said afterward that he’d wanted to move away from Paris, to explore something new. Here, the wide-shouldered suiting—part Pasolini, part Armani in his Cerruti years—looked brave and desirable. Albeit on Rubchinskiy’s men, who are really boys. These weren’t suits for suits. That’s another interesting undercurrent of the season: the return of the suit, yet used as a symbol of defiance, as subversion. There’s a degree of defiance given that men across the world are eschewing suits in favor of sportswear, with luxury houses shrugging off formality and embracing track pants and hoodies, but in expensive fabrics with deluxe detailing (Véronique Nichanian at Hermès has done it for years; her success encourages followers). Miuccia Prada offered the best of both worlds, laden backpacks and pac-a-macs strapped over her suited men, trapped in a Kafka-esque trudge up a 45-degree metal slope. There was a new formality to Gucci too, for all its globe-hopping and travelogue-ing, a return to Italian construction and sartorial values. And Thom Browne’s suits were wet, in theory, not in physicality. His trademark abbreviated and shrunken tailoring was reinterpreted in a multitude of manners with big fat zippers slapped up the back. They were familiar, but different. Demna Gvasalia’s use of suiting wasn’t about the familiar but the alien, and even the alienating. He utilized tailoring as a means to establish not only silhouettes for his Balenciaga man, but an identity. There was nothing staid about these clothes, and also little especially approachable. They were couched in the world of the fashionable, not sartorial, a specific proposition of yard-wide Claude Montana shoulders versus crotch-grabbing trousers and double-breasted numbers with shrunken Geek Chic proportions that frankly, will scare a lot of guys. That’s a good thing. It was the jolt Balenciaga needed to create a real impact with this, its first men’s runway showcase. Off the runway, the giant yellow and blue don’t-mention-that-Swedish-company leather hold-alls are already for sale in Balenciaga’s Saint-Honoré flagship. I went in and saw them rapidly going out the door. Can we really call the menswear season over, though? It’s overlapping into couture, with two of the most eagerly anticipated shows of the season: Vetements’s great leap onto the official calendar, with a collection comprising 18 collaborative lines for men and women alike. Just about everything will have dual labels, comprising the trademark Vetements monochrome alongside others including much-mimicked Champion, Mackintosh, and Juicy Couture (I kid you not). There may be a few dresses produced themselves, but otherwise—that’s all folks! Over or not, there will definitely be tailoring, and it will be manufactured by Brioni, the Italian label that has tapped Justin O’Shea, a smart-talking, sharp-dressing Australian who formerly bought clothes for the womenswear site rather than creating them, as its head honcho. Talk about industry shifts: The O’Shea hire could redefine the age-old notion of “creative director” altogether. What a trip.   Save

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